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Manaslu Photo Gallery - 5. Annapurna Circuit Dharapani to Manang

In October 2003 I Trekked Around Manaslu and the Annapurna Circuit from Dharapani to Manang

Annapurna 11 01 Manaslu Southwest Face From Dhanagyu I left at 6:20 and after crossing to the Annapurna circuit, I back tracked to upper Dharapani (1920m) to get my Annapurna trekking permit stamped. Thirty minutes later, I walked through Bagarchap (2160m), which was also hit by the same storm that produced avalanches in eastern Nepal in November 1995. A landslide roared through Bagarchap and destroyed much of the village, including two lodges. The trek has now entered the east-west Manang valley and travels west up the valley with high Himalayan peaks to the south. From Dhanagyu I looked toward Manaslu and the Southwest face popped up above the intervening ridge.

Annapurna 11 01 Manaslu Southwest Face From Dhanagyu

Annapurna 11 02 Annapurna II On The Way To Chame On the way to Chame, I had this magnificent view of Annapurna II (7937m) peaking out from the trees, with the summit ridge leading from right to left.

Annapurna 11 02 Annapurna II On The Way To Chame

Annapurna 11 03 Manaslu Southwest Face From Chame Gyan asked me to wait for him in Chame (2710m) in case he would have trouble with the police. And it is a good thing he did because there's a magnificent view of the Manaslu Southwest face from here.

Annapurna 11 03 Manaslu Southwest Face From Chame

Annapurna 11 04 Manaslu Southwest Face Close Up From Chame From Chame, the magnificent Southwest face of Manaslu is perfectly visible. This face was first climbed by Reinhold Messner on April 25, 1972. After he reached the summit, a fierce storm came up and he had to fight for his life to reach their high camp. Franz Jager, who turned back, was caught out in the storm and died. Andi Schlick and Horst Fankhausen braved the storm to try and find Franz, but Andi got lost and also died.

Annapurna 11 04 Manaslu Southwest Face Close Up From Chame

Annapurna 12 01 Bhratang Trail Blasted Out Of Rock I left Chame at 13:55 and arrived at Bhratang (2950m) at 15:30. The next morning I was off in the early morning twilight. The trail just beyond Bhratang has been blasted out of the side of the cliff, and took years to complete.

Annapurna 12 01 Bhratang Trail Blasted Out Of Rock

Annapurna 12 02 Paungda Danda Rock Face When the trail rounds a bend there is the first views of the dramatic Paungda Danda rock face, a tremendous curved rock slab of rock rising more than 1500m from the river.

Annapurna 12 02 Paungda Danda Rock Face

Annapurna 12 03 Annapurna II From Dhukure Pokhari From Dhukure Pokhari, the ridge leading to Annapurna II (7937m) was visible in the early morning sun.

Annapurna 12 03 Annapurna II From Dhukure Pokhari

Annapurna 12 04 Valley Opens Up After Dhukure Pokhari Just after Dhukure Pokhari (3200m) the valley opens up from a V-shape to a gentle U-shape.

Annapurna 12 04 Valley Opens Up After Dhukure Pokhari

Annapurna 12 05 Annapurna II Full Summit Ridge From Ghyaru I decided to take the high route to Manang because it is supposed to be more interesting. From Pisang (3240m) I crossed the river and started the 450m ascent. On the climb from Pisang to Ghyaru, I had this great view of the full summit ridge of Annapurna II (7937m) to the southwest. Annapurna II was first climbed on May 17, 1960 via the West Ridge approached from the north by Chris Bonington, Richard Grant, and Sherpa Ang Nyima on a British/Indian/Nepalese team led by Jimmy Roberts.

Annapurna 12 05 Annapurna II Full Summit Ridge From Ghyaru

Annapurna 12 06 Ghyaru Ghyaru (3670m) is supposed to be a medieval village, but it looked more modern than the villages in the upper Buri Gandaki valley. I watched them separating the wheat (or is it barley) from the chaff.

Annapurna 12 06 Ghyaru

Annapurna 12 07 Marsyangdi River and Pisang From Ghyaru Looking back down the valley from Ghyaru, I could see the Marsyangdi River winding its way past Pisang and Paungda Danda towards Chame.

Annapurna 12 07 Marsyangdi River and Pisang From Ghyaru

Annapurna 12 08 Looking Towards Manang From Ghyaru Looking up the valley toward Manang from Ghyaru, Annapurna III (7555m) had its head in the clouds. Just poking up behind Annapurna III was Gangapurna (7455m), and beyond Manang the Grande Barrière was in view. The airstrip at Hongde is visible in the lower centre.

Annapurna 12 08 Looking Towards Manang From Ghyaru

Annapurna 12 09 Annapurna II and Annapurna IV From Braga From Braga, the north face of Annapurna II (7937m) leads across a long ridge to Annapurna IV (7525m). Annapurna IV was first climbed on May 30, 1955 via the North Face and Northwest Ridge by Heinz Steinmetz, Harald Biller, and Jürgen Wellenkamp.

Annapurna 12 09 Annapurna II and Annapurna IV From Braga

Annapurna 12 10 Braga Braga (3500m) is a Tibetan-style village of about 200 houses hiding behind a photogenic steep, eroded rock outcrop. The houses are stacked one atop the other, each with an open veranda formed by a neighbour’s rooftop. The gompa is perched on a high crag overlooking the village, and is estimated to be 400 to 500 years old. The gompa comprises three main buildings and belongs to the Kagyu sect of Tibetan Buddhism.

Annapurna 12 10 Braga

Annapurna 12 11 Braga Gompa Inside The main temple is dark, mysterious and powerfully atmospheric. The people were spinning their prayer wheels and chanting Om Mani Padme Hum three times with each breath. The altar is the usual jumble of butter lamps, vases of plastic flowers, masks, tinsel and photos of the Dalai Lama.

Annapurna 12 11 Braga Gompa Inside

Annapurna 12 12 Braga Chorten Buddha Statue The Braga Gompa has a three-storied temple known as the Chorten. I waited outside and a monk unlocked the door to go in, so I followed him. Inside the temple was a large image of Buddha.

Annapurna 12 12 Braga Chorten Buddha Statue

Annapurna 13 01 Manang Manang (3540m) is the main village of the upper valley and could easily be a town in a spaghetti western. These horses are being led up the wide dusty streets in very windy conditions, Clint ... where are you?

Annapurna 13 01 Manang

Annapurna 13 02 Annapurna III Sunrise From Manang Annapurna III (7555m) shone in the morning sun from Manang. Annapurna III was first climbed on May 6, 1961 via the Northeast Face by Indian Mohan Kohli, Sonam Gyatso, and Sonam Girmi.

Annapurna 13 02 Annapurna III Sunrise From Manang

Annapurna 13 03 Grande Barriere Sunrise From Manang The Grande Barrière shone in the morning sun from Manang. This 10km long wall of rock, ice and snow was named by Maurice Herzog in 1950. The highest portion of the Grande Barriere at the far right is called Tilicho Peak (7134m), which was first climbed via the northwest shoulder on October 10, 1978 by Emmanuel Schmutz of France.

Annapurna 13 03 Grande Barriere Sunrise From Manang

Annapurna 13 04 Gangapurna Sunrise From Manang Gangapurna (7455m) shone in the morning sun from Manang. Gangapurna was first climbed on May 6, 1965 via the East Ridge by a Gunter Hauser, Ludwig Greissl, Hermann Kollensperger, Erich Reismueller, Ang Temba Sherpa, and Phu Dorje Sherpa.

Annapurna 13 04 Gangapurna Sunrise From Manang

Annapurna 13 05 Gangapurna and Lake From Manang Gangapurna and the Gangapurna Glacier are reflected in the glacial lake that drops from the northern slopes of Gangapurna.

Annapurna 13 05 Gangapurna and Lake From Manang

Annapurna 13 06 Trek To Khangsar My intent was to cross from Manang to Jomsom via Tilicho Lake. The first day of the trek to Khangsar (3770m) was fairly short. The trail heads west along the river, crosses a bridge, and then becomes a pleasant stroll. Khangsar is a collection of traditional stone buildings surrounding a large village square.

Annapurna 13 06 Trek To Khangsar

Annapurna 14 01 Snowing In Khangsar I woke up the next morning to heavy snow, the first bad weather of the trip. I knew the trek to Tilicho Lake to Jomsom was dangerous, so I had a tough decision to make. I could continue to Tilicho Base Camp and hope the weather clears tomorrow. If it doesn't we'll have to walk out, and probably miss my international flight. Or I could give up and walk out today. Then a little after 10am, a British couple, who were doing the same route and were camped an hour farther on the trail, passed by on their way down. They considered it too dangerous. I reread the description of the trek - sounds like life and death in snow. The route crosses three 5000+m passes and the trail itself is infrequently used and traverses some difficult terrain including steep, unstable scree slopes. If thickly covered with snow it is mountaineering terrain and the avalanche risk is correspondingly high. That did it. I would walk out. I left Khangsar at 11:15 and arrived at Hungde at 14:00. The sun came out amongst the clouds. I added my name to the waiting list, and now I, eh, wait.

Annapurna 14 01 Snowing In Khangsar

Annapurna 15 01 Boarding Plane In Hongde With Annapurna III Behind I made it. The Royal Nepal Airlines plane sits on the tarmac, eh, gravel, of the Hungde airstrip, with Annapurna III glistening in the morning sun. I gave the boys their tips, and the flight took off 8:50.

Annapurna 15 01 Boarding Plane In Hongde With Annapurna III Behind

Annapurna 15 02 Manaslu Southwest Face On Flight From Hongde To Pokhara On the flight from Hongde to Pokhara, I had another good view of the southwest face of Manaslu. Just 20 minutes after taking off from Hongde, we landed in hot Pokhara at 9:10.

Annapurna 15 02 Manaslu Southwest Face On Flight From Hongde To Pokhara

Annapurna 15 03 Manaslu Southwest Face On Flight From Pokhara To Kathmandu I then switched to Cosmic Air (it's got a nice ring to it, don’t you think), and once again passed the Southwest face of Manaslu on the flight from Pokhara to Kathmandu.

Annapurna 15 03 Manaslu Southwest Face On Flight From Pokhara To Kathmandu

Annapurna 15 04 Himal Chuli On Flight From Pokhara To Kathmandu After Manaslu, the flight from Pokhara to Kathmandu passed Himal Chuli.

Annapurna 15 04 Himal Chuli On Flight From Pokhara To Kathmandu

Annapurna 15 05 Kathmandu Eating Lunch At KCs After leaving Hongde at 8:50, and passing through Pokhara, I landed in Kathmandu at 12:30, and had lunch at KCs.

Annapurna 15 05 Kathmandu Eating Lunch At KCs

Annapurna 15 06 Doha Hotel Room After leaving Hongde at 8:50, and passing through Pokhara, I landed in Kathmandu at 12:30. I had lunch, changed my flight reservation, bought some gifts, showered and shaved, and left on Qatar Airways for Doha at 20:15. I arrived in Doha at 22:55 and checked in to a hotel. What a difference a day makes.

Annapurna 15 06 Doha Hotel Room