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The next morning we started our trek to Gasherbrum base camp in mostly cloudy weather. After 30 minutes we reached ‘Gasherbrum Corner’ at the junction of the Upper Baltoro Glacier with the tributary Abruzzi Glacier. Gasherbrum I and Gasherbrum I South lie straight ahead. Gasherbrum I (8080m) is the 11th highest mountain in the world. Gasherbrum I was first climbed by July 5, 1958 by Americans Pete Schoening and Andy Kauffman.

Gasherbrum I and Gasherbrum I South lie straight ahead seen from the junction of the Upper Baltoro Glacier with the tributary Abruzzi Glacier. (click to enlarge)


Gasherbrum IV and Gasherbrum II Close Up From Goro II Early Morning

Gasherbrum IV and Gasherbrum II Close Up From Goro II Early Morning (click to enlarge)


The K2 West Face shines in the late afternoon sun from Concordia. The K2 West Ridge is on the far left. The Southwest Pillar separates the sunny west face from the K2 South Face. The Great Serac is just in shadow to the right below the K2 Summit. The K2 Shoulder is farther down to the right, partially in the sun. The K2 West Ridge was first climbed by Japanese Eiho Otani and Pakistani Nazir Sabir, reaching the K2 summit on August 7, 1981.

K2 West Face from Concordia with K2 West Ridge on left, the Southwest Pillar, the South Face, the Great Serac, and the K2 Shoulder. (click to enlarge)


Taken from the upper Baltoro Glacier, the twin summits of Muztagh Tower (7274m) are perfectly aligned and the mountain is seen as a slender tooth, looking impregnable. A similar photo by Vittorio Sella in 1909 inspired two expeditions to race for the first ascent in 1956. In reality both teams found their routes less steep than Sella's view had suggested. Joe Brown and Ian McNaught-Davis climbed from the west side of the peak and reached the west summit of Muztagh Tower (7270m) on July 6, 1956. Tom Patey and John Hartog repeated the ascent the next day, also reaching the slightly higher east summit (7274m). A few days later a French Team of Guido Magnone, Robert Paragot, André Contamine, and Paul Keller climbed the mountain from the east.

Taken from the upper Baltoro Glacier, the twin summits of Muztagh Tower (7274m) are perfectly aligned and the mountain is seen as a slender tooth, looking impregnable. (click to enlarge)


The Trango Tower (6239 m), commonly called Nameless Tower, is a very large, pointed spire which juts 1000m out of the ridgeline. The Trango Monk (5850m) is to the left. The Trango Nameless Tower was first climbed in 1976 with Mo Anthoine, Martin Boysen reaching the summit on July 8, 1976 and Joe Brown and Malcolm Howells the next day.

The Trango Nameless Tower (6239 m) is a very large, pointed spire which juts 1000m out of the ridgeline. The Trango Monk (5850m) is to the left. (click to enlarge)


The Khardong Hill with the Kharpocho Fort is beautifully reflected in the calm Indus River in Skardu (2286m). Skardu is the district headquarters of Baltistan, situated on the banks of the mighty Indus River, just 8 km (5 miles) above its confluence with the Shigar River. The Indus barely seems to move across the immense, flat Skardu valley, 40km long, 10 km wide and carpeted with sand dunes. There are several beautiful blue lakes nearby, including Satpara, and Upper and Lower Kachura.

The Khardong Hill with the Kharpocho Fort is beautifully reflected in the calm Indus River in Skardu (2286m). (click to enlarge)


The next morning we started our trek from Shagring Camp to Gasherbrum Base Camp in mostly cloudy weather. After 30 minutes we reached ‘Gasherbrum Corner’ at the junction of the Upper Baltoro Glacier with the tributary Abruzzi Glacier. Gasherbrum I and Gasherbrum I South lie straight ahead. Gasherbrum I (8080m) is the 11th highest mountain in the world. Gasherbrum I was first climbed by July 5, 1958 by Americans Pete Schoening and Andy Kauffman. Gasherbrum I South (7069m) was first climbed by Maurice Barrard and Georges Narbaud via the Southwest Ridge in July 1980 on their ascent of Gasherbrum I

Gasherbrum I and Gasherbrum I South from the junction of Upper Baltoro Glacier and the Abruzzi Glacier (click to enlarge)


Gasherbrum IV, Gasherbrum II, Gasherbrum VII, Gasherbrum Twins, Gasherbrum V and Gasherbrum VI From Goro II

Gasherbrum IV, Gasherbrum II, Gasherbrum VII, Gasherbrum Twins, Gasherbrum V and Gasherbrum VI From Goro II (click to enlarge)


Just after leaving Concordia, I looked up the Godwin Austin Glacier as the sun finally hit the K2 West Face, with Angel Peak (Angelus Peak) coming into view on the left. The K2 Southwest Pillar separates the sunlit South Face from the West Face mostly in shadow to the left. The South-southeast Spur is now lit up by the sun and arrives at the K2 Shoulder on the right. On the far right is the Abruzzi Ridge / Spur, the East-southeast ridge, the normal ascent route.

Full view of K2 West Face and South Face from just beyond Concordia with Angel Peak on the left. (click to enlarge)


Sunrise On K2 Summit From Concordia

Sunrise On K2 Summit From Concordia (click to enlarge)


Jerome Ryan Poses Above Lake On Baltoro Glacier With Great Trango Tower And Trango Castle Behind

Jerome Ryan Poses Above Lake On Baltoro Glacier With Great Trango Tower And Trango Castle Behind (click to enlarge)


Concordia Campsite below Mitre Peak

Concordia Campsite below Mitre Peak (click to enlarge)


Gasherbrum IV And Gasherbrum II Close Up From Baltoro Glacier Between Goro II and Concordia

Gasherbrum IV And Gasherbrum II Close Up From Baltoro Glacier Between Goro II and Concordia (click to enlarge)


Gasherbrum II pokes out to the right of The West Face of Gasherbrum IV shining in the late afternoon sun from Concordia.

Gasherbrum II pokes out to the right of The West Face of Gasherbrum IV shining in the late afternoon sun from Concordia. (click to enlarge)


Just after leaving Concordia, the sun finally hit Broad Peak. The North Summit is on the far left, the Central Summit is slightly out of view in the middle, and on the far right is the Main Summit. The first ascent of Broad Peak North summit was made by Renato Casarotto on June 28, 1983. The first traverse of the three Broad Peak summits was completed by Jerzy Kukuczka and Wojtek Kurtyka. They climbed the west ridge to the North summit, continued along the ridge to the Central summit. The pair then descended to Broad Col from where they followed the original route over the Forepeak to the main summit on July 17, 1984.

Broad Peak just after leaving Concordia with the North Summit on the left, the Central Summit slightly out of view in the middle, and the Main Summit on the right (click to enlarge)


The next morning dawned clear with the first rays of the sun hitting Masherbrum with its ice cream cone top glistening in the sun from Goro II. The summit of Masherbrum's sheer north face is a perfect pyramid, with steep narrow ridges rising suddenly to a sharp pinnacle. It was first climbed via the south west face on July 6, 1960 by George Bell and Willi Unsoeld on an American - Pakistani expedition. Two few days later on July 8, expedition leader Nick Clinch and Pakistani Captain Jawed Akhter Khan also reached the summit.

Masherbrum with its ice cream cone top glistens at sunrise from Goro II. The summit is a perfect pyramid with steep narrow ridges rising suddenly to a sharp pinnacle. (click to enlarge)


Chogolisa I (7665m) is on the left and Chogolisa II (7654m) is on the right, seen from Shagring camp on the Upper Baltoro Glacier. On August 4, 1958 a Japanese expedition organized by the Academic Alpine Club of Kyoto led by Takeo Kawabara made the first ascent of Chogolisa II, with Masao Fujihira and Kazumasa Hirai reaching the summit. The first ascent of Chogolisa I (7665m) was made on August 2, 1975 by Fred Pressl and Gustav Ammerer of an Austrian expedition led by Eduard Koblmuller. Koblmuller almost suffered the same fate as Hermann Buhl, as he also fell through a cornice on the ascent; fortunately, he was roped and team members were able to pull him to safety.

Chogolisa I (7665m) is on the left and Chogolisa II (7654m) is on the right, seen from Shagring camp on the Upper Baltoro Glacier. (click to enlarge)


We arrive in Thongol and quickly unload the jeep and set up the kitchen tent and my tent where I rest for a few minutes. Ahhh. Iqbal puts together the loads a little bit like a jigsaw puzzle trying to even them out to 25kg each. There are nine loads so Iqbal has to find five more porters. He tells me he's having trouble because the porters want to wait for the mountaineering expedition we met on the flight to Skardu. Here is our team at Thongol: below - Jerome Ryan, guide Iqbal, cook Ali; above - porters Syed, Muhammad Khan, and Muhammad Siddiq, and finally our sirdar Ali Naqi.

Our team: Jerome Ryan, guide Iqbal, cook Ali; above - porters Syed, Muhammad Khan, and Muhammad Siddiq, and finally our sirdar Ali Naqi. (click to enlarge)


My Lonely Tent Late Afternoon At K2 North Face Intermediate Base Camp 4462m With K2 North Face Close Behind

My Lonely Tent Late Afternoon At K2 North Face Intermediate Base Camp 4462m With K2 North Face Close Behind (click to enlarge)


K2 North Face Close Up At Sunset From K2 North Face Intermediate Base Camp

K2 North Face Close Up At Sunset From K2 North Face Intermediate Base Camp (click to enlarge)


Gasherbrum North Base Camp 4294m In China With Gasherbrum I Hidden Peak, Gasherbrum II E, Gasherbrum II and Gasherbrum III North Faces

Gasherbrum North Base Camp 4294m In China With Gasherbrum I Hidden Peak, Gasherbrum II E, Gasherbrum II and Gasherbrum III North Faces (click to enlarge)


K2 East Face Close Up Just Before Sunset From Gasherbrum North Base Camp In China

K2 East Face Close Up Just Before Sunset From Gasherbrum North Base Camp In China (click to enlarge)


K2 East Face Close Up At Sunrise Sunset From Gasherbrum North Base Camp In China

K2 East Face Close Up At Sunrise Sunset From Gasherbrum North Base Camp In China (click to enlarge)


Gasherbrum I Hidden Peak North Face Close Up Late Afternoon From Gasherbrum North Base Camp in China

Gasherbrum I Hidden Peak North Face Close Up Late Afternoon From Gasherbrum North Base Camp in China (click to enlarge)


Gasherbrum II E, Gasherbrum II, Gasherbrum III, Nakpo Kangri North Faces Just before Sunset From Gasherbrum North Base Camp In China

Gasherbrum II E, Gasherbrum II, Gasherbrum III, Nakpo Kangri North Faces Just before Sunset From Gasherbrum North Base Camp In China (click to enlarge)


Gasherbrum I Hidden Peak North Face Close Up Before Sunset From Gasherbrum North Base Camp In China

Gasherbrum I Hidden Peak North Face Close Up Before Sunset From Gasherbrum North Base Camp In China (click to enlarge)


Gasherbrum II and Gasherbrum III North Faces Close Up Before Sunset From Gasherbrum North Base Camp In China

Gasherbrum II and Gasherbrum III North Faces Close Up Before Sunset From Gasherbrum North Base Camp In China (click to enlarge)


Gasherbrum II North Face Close Up Just Before Sunset From Gasherbrum North Base Camp In China

Gasherbrum II North Face Close Up Just Before Sunset From Gasherbrum North Base Camp In China (click to enlarge)


Gasherbrum I Hidden Peak North Face Close Up At Sunset From Gasherbrum North Base Camp In China

Gasherbrum I Hidden Peak North Face Close Up At Sunset From Gasherbrum North Base Camp In China (click to enlarge)


Gasherbrum II E, Gasherbrum II, Gasherbrum III North Faces At Sunset From Gasherbrum North Base Camp In China

Gasherbrum II E, Gasherbrum II, Gasherbrum III North Faces At Sunset From Gasherbrum North Base Camp In China (click to enlarge)


Gasherbrum II, Gasherbrum III North Faces At Sunset From Gasherbrum North Base Camp In China

Gasherbrum II, Gasherbrum III North Faces At Sunset From Gasherbrum North Base Camp In China (click to enlarge)


Gasherbrum I Hidden Peak North Face Close Up At The End Of Sunset From Gasherbrum North Base Camp In China

Gasherbrum I Hidden Peak North Face Close Up At The End Of Sunset From Gasherbrum North Base Camp In China (click to enlarge)


Gasherbrum I, Gasherbrum II E, Gasherbrum II, Gasherbrum III, Nakpo Kangri From Gasherbrum North Glacier In China

Gasherbrum I, Gasherbrum II E, Gasherbrum II, Gasherbrum III, Nakpo Kangri From Gasherbrum North Glacier In China (click to enlarge)


Gasherbrum II E and Gasherbrum II And Gasherbrum North Glacier In China

Gasherbrum II E and Gasherbrum II And Gasherbrum North Glacier In China (click to enlarge)


Huge Penitentes On The Gasherbrum North Glacier In China

Huge Penitentes On The Gasherbrum North Glacier In China (click to enlarge)


Guide Muhammad, Cook Shobo, Jerome Ryan On The Gasherbrum North Glacier In China

Guide Muhammad, Cook Shobo, Jerome Ryan On The Gasherbrum North Glacier In China (click to enlarge)

Updated: September 2014. Click on an image to see the FULL size with a caption.

Gasherbrum I Hidden Peak - 8080m - #11 In The World

To see the full list of photos, see K2 Photo Gallery.

Gasherbrum is a remote group of peaks located at the north-eastern end of the Baltoro Glacier in the Karakoram range of the Himalaya. The massif contains two of the world's 8000m peaks. In 1856, Thomas George Montgomerie, a British Royal Engineers lieutenant and a member of the Great Trigonometric Survey of India, sighted a group of high peaks in the Karakoram from more than 200 km away. He named five of these peaks K1, K2, K3, K4 and K5 where the K denotes Karakoram. Today, K1 is known as Masherbrum, K3 as Broad Peak, K4 as Gasherbrum II and K5 as Gasherbrum I. Only K2, the second highest mountain in the world, has kept Montgomerie's name. Gasherbrum I was also called Hidden Peak by William Martin Conway in 1892 in reference to its extreme remoteness.

Nick Clinch from A Walk In The Sky book

"We came over the rise and there it was – Hidden Peak. ... The shape was familiar but the size was beyond belief. In front of us and 10,000 feet above our heads, at the top of a gigantic pyramid that rises directly out of the South Gasherbrum and Abruzzi glaciers, was the summit. Just below it, a glacier tumbled down the mountain underneath the tremendous hanging ice cliffs of the west face. To the left, the bare rock of the northwest ridge swept up the final pyramid. To the right the French buttress climbed into the sky and culminated in the point called Hidden South (23,200 feet) before connecting with the high snow plateau that extends for miles toward the southeast at an elevation of over 23,000 feet. Beyond the French spur, almost out of the scene, the arête tried by Andre Roch in 1934 rose for thousands of feet before it too, joined the plateau, five miles from the summit. For years we had been mentally climbing Hidden Peak."



Baltoro Glacier from Paiju to Concordia with K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum I, Gasherbrum II and Gasherbrum IV, Masherbrum  - Nasa Image ISS001-343-26 and 343-27

Baltoro Glacier Trekking Route To Concordia And Gasherbrum Base Camp

After flying from Islamabad to Skardu with an amazing view of Nanga Parbat, driving from Skardu to Thongol, and trekking from Thongol to Paiju, I set foot on the Baltoro Glacier. I trekked to Khoburtse that first day with a stunning view of Trango Nameless Tower and the Great Trango Tower. I had a dazzling sunrise from Khoburtse with views of Paiju Peak, Uli Biaho Tower, Trango Towers, Cathedral, and Lobsang Spire. The next trekking day we went from Khoburtse to Goro II where Masherbrum was striking both at sunset and sunrise while Gasherbrum IV loomed ahead with Gasherbrum II poking out to its right.

The next day was a fairly short trekking day passing Muztagh Tower before arriving at Concordia, the highlight of the whole trek with K2 dominating the view at the head of the Godwin-Austen Glacier. Rotating in a circle at Concordia, the view has K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum IV, Baltoro Kangri, Vigne Peak, Mitre Peak, Paiju Peak, the spires of the Baltoro Glacier, Crystal Peak and Marble Peak. WOW! Spectacular! Breathtaking!

The next day we trekked on the Upper Baltoro Glacier to Shaqring Camp with views of Chogolisa and Baltoro Kangri. Cloudy weather rolled in as we trekked on the Abruzzi Glacier to Gasherbrum Base Camp with a brief view of Gasherbrum I. After back-tracking to Concordia it snowed, so we decided to return back down the Baltoro Glacier instead of waiting for the weather to clear and the snow to melt.



K2 North Face Trek Route

K2 North Face Trek Route And Gasherbrum North Base Camp

After flying from Beijing to Urumqi and Kashgar, we drove to Karghilik and finally to Yilik village (3504m). The trek was easy to Sarak Camp (3759m) and Kotaz Camp (4330m) before crossing the Aghil Pass (4810m) and descending to the Shaksgam Valley (4000m). The trail was along the wide expanse of the Shaksgam River to a beautiful camp at Kerqin (3968m) with small flowers and mountain views. The trail to K2 Base Camp continues on the flat Shaksgam Valley to River Junction Camp (3824m) and then to the Sarpo Laggo Valley and Sughet Jangal (3900m). The trek was fairly short to K2 Intermediate Base Camp (4462m) with spectacular views of K2 North Face, especially at sunset. I was the only person at this lonely camp.

I retraced the trail back to River Junction and Kerqin camps, passed the valley from Aghil Pass and continued to Kulqin Bulak Camp (4060m) and Gasherbrum North Base camp (4294m) with breathtaking views of Gasherbrum I, Gasherbrum II and Gasherbrum III. We then retraced to Yilik Village and back to Kasgkar and Beijing.


Gasherbrums - my most viewed Youtube Videos

 

K2 East Face and Gasherbrum I, II, III North Faces from Gasherbrum North Base Camp In China

 

Trek to Gasherbrum North Base Camp 4294m with views of Gasherbrum I Hidden Peak North Face, Gasherbrum II E, Gasherbrum II North Face, Gasherbrum III North Face, Gasherbrum North Glacier

 

Gasherbrum North Glacier in China with views of Gasherbrum II E and Gasherbrum II North Face, and Huge Ice Penitentes


Gasherbrum I Hidden Peak First Ascent


Gasherbrum I Hidden Peak First Ascent - The expedition poses in front of Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) at Base Camp after the first ascent in 1958.
Behind the team is Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) above the Abrruzzi Glacier. The summit on the left, Hidden South in the middle, and the Roch ridge used by the expedition on the far right.
Front, left to right: Bob Swift, Tom Nevison, Dick Irvin. Rear: Mohd Akram, Gil Roberts, Ras Rizvi, Pete Schoening, Nick Clinch, Andy Kauffman, Tom McCormack. - A Walk In The Sky book

Gasherbrum I Hidden Peak First Ascent - Andy Kauffman holds the American flag and the Pakistani flag on the summit of Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) July 5, 1958

Nick Clinch thought of the idea of Americans attempting an unclimbed 8000er, sold the idea, persuaded other mountaineers to join the team, and got the expedition off the ground. He helped raise the money, selected the team, and worked on the equipment. He researched the route options and met Andre Roch to discuss the southwest ridge that Roch and Hans Ertl had tried in 1934.

The team flew to Skardu and trekked to Base Camp wearing 10-gallon cowboy hats, Clinch's idea to help create a team atmosphere. They investigated the northwest ridge, but decided on the southwest Roch ridge. They fixed ropes to the southeast snow plateau that led between up the plateau between Hidden South and Urdok Peak to the summit pyramid.

In true American democratic fashion they voted for the summit team. "Neither Schoening nor Kauffman had voted for themselves, but everyone else had. They were to be the summit team." Gasherbrum I was first climbed on July 5, 1958 by Pete Schoening and Andy Kauffman. Pete Schoening: "At three o’clock we topped the rounding ridge and there was no place higher to go. We had reached the summit of Hidden Peak, the terminus of months of planning, teamwork, and constant effort. It was exhilarating and beautiful." Andy Kauffman: "Pete Schoening climbed this mountain. Pete broke trail over two-thirds of the way."


Other Notable Gasherbrum I Hidden Peak Ascents


Reinhold Messner And Hans Kammerlander Gasherbrum II and I Traverse Route 1984 - To The Top Of The World (Reinhold Messner) book

Peter Habeler on Gasherbrum I Summit on August 10, 1975 - G I und G II Herausforderung Gasherbrum book

Peter Habeler And Reinhold Messner At Base Camp After First Ascent Of Gasherbrum I Northwest Face 1975 - The Challenge (Reinhold Messner) book

Gasherbrum I Hidden Peak First 8000m Alpine Ascent

Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler climbed Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) on August 10, 1975 via the difficult North Face without oxygen, fixed ropes, high camps or high-altitude porters. This was the smallest team to succeed on an 8000m peak and was the birth of Alpine Style mountaineering in the Himalaya.

'Only with difficulty could Peter hold back his tears of joy. ... We sat on the summit, in the centre of an endless, empty space. Far below in the valleys lay milky vapour. The horizon around me grew like the emptiness in me. Any my deep breaths condensed to spontaneous events in a purely visionary circle. With an indescribable feeling of serene indifference I awoke from this state of tranquility, as from a sort of nirvana." The weather deteriorated and the descent became more difficult than the ascent.' - To The Top Of The World by Reinhold Messner.


Hans Kammerlander On Gasherbrum II Summit June 25, 1984 With Gasherbrum I Behind - All Fourteen 8000ers (Reinhold Messner) book

Reinhold Messner on the summit ridge of Gasherbrum I a few metres below the top on June 28, 1984. In a snowstorm, without a rope, this corniced ridge demanded the utmost caution. - All Fourteen 8000ers (Reinhold Messner) book

First Traverse Of Two 8000m Peaks - Gasherbrum I Hidden Peak And Gasherbrum II

From June 23 to 30, 1984, Reinhold Messner and Hans Kammerlander traversed Gasherbrum II and Gasherbrum I in Alpine Style, reaching the summit of Gasherbrum II on June 25, descending to a pass, and reaching the summit of Gasherbrum I on June 28.

'In three days in radiant weather we were on the summit of Gasherbrum II. ... The next morning we risked the dangerous descent into the Gasherbrum Valley ... Only if we forced ourselves – exhausted, emaciated and without back-up – to venture the second peak, could we succeed in what no one had previously attempted – the combined traverse of two of the highest mountains in the world without rest and without outside help. ... Suddenly it became uncannily gloomy. The storm increased to hurricane force ... Our goggles were iced up, our faces numb. ... At last, behind a cornice was the summit! The second eight-thousander within four days.' - To The Top Of The World by Reinhold Messner.


Hans Kammerlander On Gasherbrum II Summit June 25, 1984 With Gasherbrum I Behind - All Fourteen 8000ers (Reinhold Messner) book

Gasherbrum I Hidden Peak First Ascent Southwest Face - Jerzy Kukuczka On Gasherbrum I Summit July 23, 1983 - strony.aster.pl

Gasherbrum I Hidden Peak First Ascent Southwest Face

The first ascent of Gasherbrum I Southwest Face was completed by Jerzy Kukuczka and Wojciech Kurtyka on July 23, 1983. Wojciech Voytek Kurtyka in American Alpine Journal: Out next objective [after climbing Gasherbrum II on July 1 1983] was the virgin 8000-foot southwest face of Hidden peak (Gasherbrum I). ... At three A.M. on July 20 we set out. ... At one P.M., after climbing 5000 feet, we faced the first unknown, the traverse to the right over the rocky rib onto the center of the wall. We had to traverse for 125 feet over badly protected, UIAA Grade V rock plastered with snow. At sundown, only ten feet remained. Cutting an icy bivouac platform took our last energy.

The next morning we climbed onto the sun-flooded ice-and-rock face. Unroped we carefully ascended 1000 feet on the Grade III mixed terrain covered with powder snow. At noon we stood hesitatingly under the second unknown, the vast snowfields in the serac zone. We tunnelled our way up the heavy snow. After winding through the serac barrier, we placed our bivouac at 24,275 feet.

On the next day we had hoped to get to the summit. High over the snowfield was the third unknown, the rocky summit cone. We headed a bit to the right and aimed high to the south ridge. Soon we touched the rock. After one pitch it was clear that we wouldn't get over it before dark. Another variation higher up was only slightly better. We had to turn back. On the first rappel I saw my crampon bouncing down between the rocks. There were 8000 feet back down to the glacier. Carefully, sometimes belaying, we climbed down to our bivouac. The prospect of a descent with one crampon the next day down hundreds of meters of slippery rock and ice was horrifying. It seemed so bad that we decided to go up once more the next day.

On July 23 we made an early start. A half hour later I heard jubilant shouts from Jurek. He had found my crampon! Unbelievably, 1500 feet below the unfortunate rappel, it had stuck in soft snow. We soon reached the south ridge. Unexpectedly the ridge provided much unroped, though steep, rock climbing of Grade III. At 2:30 P.M. [on July 23, 1983] we were on the summit [of Gasherbrum I Hidden Peak] (8068 meters, 26470 feet). After descending to our tent, the weather broke. It started snowing. We burned our last gas and ate our last slice of bread. The next day we simply had to get to Base Camp. And we did - at midnight.