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Updated: March 2012. Click on an image to see the FULL size with a caption.
Shishapangma (8012m) is probably the least known of the world's fourteen 8000m peaks and is the only 8000m peak to lie wholly within Tibet.
Name: Peak XXIII of the Indian Survey was for many years known by the Nepali Hindu name Gosainthan, which translates as Place Of The Saint, the sacred home of the god Shiva. The Tibetan name for the mountain is Shishapangma, literally translating to "The mountain overlooking the grassy plains", a very descriptive name. The Chinese have created their own Sino-Tibetan name, calling it Xixabangma.
After reconnaissance from the north in 1961 and 1963, the Chinese returned in 1964 with an expedition numbering over 200.
The first ascent of Shishapangma was made on May 2, 1964 via the North Face. Ten climbers made it to the top including leader Hsu Ching, deputy leader Chang Chun-yen, Wang Fu-chou, Wu Tsung-yueh, Chen San, Cheng Tien-liang, and four Tibetans - Sodnam Doje, Migmar Trashi, Doje, and Yonten.
Many western climbers were doubtful that the Chinese actually did the climb, with the ascent photo simply being against a blue sky. Other photos were eventually analyzed and proved that they had in fact made the ascent.
The first ascent of the Shishapangma Southwest Face was completed on May 28, 1982 in alpine style by Alex McIntyre, Doug Scott, and Roger Baxter-Jones.
The first ascent of Shishapangma by a woman was completed on April 30, 1981 by Junko Tabei from Japan with Rinzing Phinzo and Gyalbu Jiabu.
The first ascent of the Shishapangma Central Summit was completed on October 10, 1982 by Makato Hara, Hiro Komamiya, Hirofumi Konishi, Takayoshi Chiba, Motomu Ohmiya, and Masaaki Tomita from Japan. Many people have successfully made the climb to the Central Summit, but less than half have continued to the Main Summit, just over an hours climb away, separated by a knife edge ridge of sometimes very unstable snow.
The first ascent of Shishapangma in winter was completed on January 14, 2005 by Simone Moro and Polish climber Piotr Morawski via the southwest face.